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Sneakers Of Death and Tie-In Merchandise Of Doom
Last Saturday night was "Nike Night" for the Mariners' baseball game at the
Kingdome. In an unprecedented promotion, 54,000 unwitting baseball fans
were, after the national anthem was played, locked into the cavernous
concrete structure, not allowed to leave, given inadequate toilet
facilities, charged $6.00 for each inedible Kingdog as the only available
form of nutrition, and, regardless of age or health, forced to spend the
next fourteen hours sewing sneakers for resale in the outside world.
Well, not exactly. But Nike and kindred transnationals (Disney, Guess,
Starbucks, and many others) have become notorious for widespread labor
abuses in the bold new global economy: sweatshops, use of child labor, use
of prison labor, human rights abuses in conjunction with brutal
dictatorships and armies, attacks on union organizing efforts, and (not
coincidentally) obscene executive salaries and obscene profits. In the last
two years, the public awareness of and use of terms like "sweatshop" and
"corporate welfare" has skyrocketed. It's happened without benefit of any
large-scale, organized political advocacy against corporate malfeasance--
indeed, it's happened despite relentless, daily glorification of our
Corporate Uber Alles world by advertising, politicians, and news reports.
General public awareness has not translated into any meaningful political
opposition, let alone any kind of check on sociopathic corporate behavior.
Yet. But it might--soon, at the present rate. So the counter-attack is in
full gear.
Systematic of the aggressive, pro-active, and very slick damage control is
the utterly fraudulent "No Sweat" agreement, announced by Bill Clinton and
a phalanx of his corporate puppetmasters on April 14.
The agreement, brokered by a Presidential Task Force and signed by textile
industry execs, major human rights and labor activists, and Clinton's
administration, allows companies to affix a "No Sweat" label to their
products if they adhere to standards of the agreed-upon Code of Conduct. As
with Starbucks' Code of Conduct (reported in ETS! #31, April 8), the devil
is in the details, or lack thereof. Among the problems:
"Companies shall pay the local minimum wage or prevailing industry
wage." Nike is one of the many flagrant current violators of this
provision; its Indonesian workers, for example, don't even earn Indonesia's
minimum wage. That minimum wage is determined based on the government's
calculation of what can buy the minimum caloric intake needed to stay
alive. More importantly, it's not the countries setting these minimum
wages; it's the companies themselves, as they pressure countries to bid
against each other to attract and keep foreign investment and factories. To
comply with No Sweat, it will be as easy for Nike et al to lower minimum
wage laws as to raise wages. The agreement amounts to an industry promise
to comply with standards its own business practices create.
The agreement accepts a 60 hour work week (48 hours plus 12 hours
mandatory overtime) as the norm and then exempts itself "in extraordinary
business circumstances." Such circumstances aren't defined, and could
be anything; the limit is meaningless.
"Employees shall be compensated for overtime hours at the legal rate or,
where none exists, at a rate at least equal to their regular hourly
compensation rate." Since there is no such "legal rate" in many of
these countries (and it's under attack in the rest), all this is
essentially saying is that employees should be paid. Truly a breakthrough.
To verify whether companies comply with even these paltry standards, the
agreement states that independent external monitors shall be used. Most
current Codes of Conduct would fall under these standards; for example,
Nike uses the accounting firm Ernst & Young, which issues secret reports to
Nike that aren't available to the public, international labor or human
rights groups, or local activists in the relevant countries. Far from being
"independent," this provision merely whitewashes self-reporting by
insisting that the cost be paid to a different corporation.
Most Codes of Conducts already adopted in response to public pressure over
Third World working conditions (ala Starbucks) have been image boosters for
the companies involved, but--because of lax to non-existent enforcement--
have been meaningless for actual workers. Meanwhile, labor rights of all
workers continue to erode under the relentless pressure of global
capitalism. The "No Sweat" agreement codifies this arrangement by giving
corporations financial incentive (those image-friendly labels) to enter
into agreements that don't challenge fundamental inequity, while buying off
the more gullible or cooptable portions of the movement demanding reform.
It is, in other words, vintage Clinton.
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